Thursday 21st November 2013
This morning we packed our bags and left our hotel in Tiberius to head south. We drove past the Sea of Galilee for one last time, over the River Jordan and south into the Jordan Valley and the West Bank.
We passed through Bell She’an all the way down towards Jericho. The landscape as we journeyed changed dramatically, from the green and lush valley and plains of Galilee, to the drier, more mountainous and harsher desert. Our guide explained the modern and ancient story of the hills that surrounded us: ‘This is where Saul was captured with his family and executed with his family….. here are the bananas and avocados that are grown in the fertile fields of this valley… this is the border control area between Jordan and Israel’ – a long stretch of electrified fencing, with jeeps driving up and down. We had to go through similar control areas into the West Bank; it all served as a prominent reminder of the continuing conflicts here.
The River Jordan
"John answered them all, ‘I baptise you with water. But one who is more powerful than I will come, the straps of whose sandals I am not worthy to untie. He will baptise you with the Holy Spirit and fire." (Luke 3:16-19)
We stopped close to Jericho on the banks of the river Jordan: the river where John the Baptist fulfilled his work and where Jesus himself was baptised before starting his public ministry. Here we were led by Fr John in a reflection that asked us not to view the sacraments in terms of an event, but more to look at the process that it starts; one that continues to have an effect in our lives. Here in this arid environment the waters of baptism become a more powerful reminder of the necessity of water and so the words of Jesus when he describes himself as ‘living water’ have particular rresonance in reminding us how dependent we are on God. We were also encouraged not only to be a glass though which people can see Jesus, but to take our unique gifts to become crystals reflecting and refracting the light of Christ. Bishop John then led us in a renewal of our Baptismal vows at the water’s edge, sprinkling us with water from the Jordan. It was a special time and a lovely way to remind ourselves that we must first recognise our identity in being God’s ‘Beloved’ before we can enter into our individual ministries.
We made our way back to the bus and our destination, a plush hotel in Jericho. The city boasts of being the oldest in the world, dating from around 8000 BC. Other cities have documentation dating from earlier yet Jericho is the only one with a continuous history of habitation. And it is bigger than I imagined, from the stories that I had heard about it.
Wadi El Kelt
The drive between Jericho and Jerusalem takes us through the Judean desert. This incredible landscape is one that we have heard much about, from the desert wanderings of the Israelites for the 40 years after leaving Egypt, to the 40 days Jesus himself spent there. It is harsh and dry and there is very little shelter from the sun beating down. It is very easy to look out and imagine the tribes of Israel passing though, led by the cloud during the day and the pillar of fire at night. We were called to recognise the ‘desert’ times in our own lives, where we have to join Christ in his temptations and struggles. We stopped at Wadi El Kelt valley in the desert to celebrate Mass - no church, just a small outdoor auditorium with the desert around us. It was a very beautiful and simple Mass, celebrated by Fr Phillip. In the homily Fr John talked about the Parable of the Good Shepherd (see video): set in this environment we can relate so much more easily to the need for sheep to follow their Master and to know his voice – their lives depend on it. So too do ours. Jesus is the Good Shepherd who lays down his life for his sheep. That message will become more and more real and evident to us as we journey over the coming days to see where our Shepherd did indeed lay down his life for us.
The hills before us were remarkable and the thought of leaping sheep came to mind – surely hills that inspired David in Psalm 113:
“When Israel came out of Egypt, Jacob’s people from a land of strangers, Judah became his sanctuary and Israel his domain.
The sea saw it, and fled; the Jordan flowed backwards at the sight; the mountains leapt like rams; the hills, like yearling sheep.”
Arrival in Jerusalem
"Jerusalem - built as a city that is bound firmly together, to which the tribes go up, the tribes of the Lord, as was decreed for Israel, to give thanks to the name of the Lord." (Psalm 122, vv 3-5)
After Mass we finished our journey to Jerusalem. At an altitude of about 1000 metres above where we were at the river Jordan we had quite a climb ahead of us, but as the city skyline started to appear our anticipation grew. There was more security and a lot more traffic than we had previously seen. Jerusalem is primarily a Jewish city and considered the capital of both Israel and Palestine, as well as being an important city in all three major monotheistic world religions; Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Completely destroyed ten times in its history, it has rarely known peace. However, despite this the Holy Places are still there and there is always hope that one day, by God’s grace, peace may prevail. The city of Old Jerusalem seems very unchanged, unlike the sprawling areas growing outside the walls, with narrow alleys teeming with small markets, stalls and shops. Our journey will be based here for the next few days.
Consul General
This evening we had a talk with Sir Vincent Fean, the British Consul General to Jerusalem and the occupied areas. He talked to us about the situation between Israel and Palestine and some of its complexities and recent developments. It is a difficult situation, and until both sides are willing to talk it seems unlikely that much progress can be made. He did, however, testify to the power of prayer, stating that the only way things can move forward is to really pray for the conflict to end and for there to be peace here. It will require a miracle, but being present here in such a holy place is hard to reconcile with all the hatred and hurt and violence that surrounds the area. So please, in your prayers this evening, do remember Israel and Palestine, their citizens and pray for peace. May there be no more walls and divisions, either in our hearts or here in the Holy Land.
